Figured i'd post up what i've been doing since it's sorta fun.

Started the process of building a forged engine about a month back. Plan to have this ready by around spring to keep me busy through the nice weather with it's install ect.
First i picked up a free '97 GT shortblock that had spun a rod bearing - wont use internals, only block which is good to over 1000hp. Being bored over to a fresh 4.7L this month.




New Manley H-Beams with ARP rods bolts (rods good to 950, bolts to 850).








Forged 8 bolt cobra crank, 37k miles. I'd have to use my used cast crank otherwise so i figured a used cobra crank wouldn't hurt. Good to 1500hp and 8k rpms.







Manley ultralight .20 over forged 18CC pistons good to 1000hp, aiming for around 9.0:1 compression with bored block. (still in the mail)


Cobra oil pump good to 800hp.



Also got a 90mm SCT MAF good to 700rwhp and dual 255lph pumps good to 700rwhp.



I'll be using the heads currenlty on my car. MMR stage II ported PI heads with SS valves and bronze guides 230cfm intake 200 exhaust.


Doing it over a couple months has given me the ability to do this all on a dime as well. I wait for deals to fall into my lap, everything is new besides free block and used crank. Everything I've gotten so far ia about half msrp or used going rate.

Boost should be in the form of a new 6th generation MP1900 TVS blower (used on ZR1):

and a custom lower intake with a the biggest possible intercooler:

and heat exchanger: 3" x 7.25" x 27"


But am still toying with the idea of a single turbo as long as i can pass smog.

The car BTW (old):



Now:

I hope whoever bashed you for the chromes gets into this thread: that's the most tasteful use of chrome I've seen in a while. Good luck with your project!

Thanks! Much appreciated.

ha ha pushrods FTW

great work! We are getting treated to another engine built.

I think this engine has overhead cams... Also, how would a single turbo work in a V8 engine? Would not you have to run a turbo per cylinder bank?

Correct, it's a SOHC - two heads two cams. I'm running CMS stage 1 N/A cams right now. Will be trading those out for a stage II blower cams if i go positive displacement supercharger - keeping them if i go turbo as they have pretty good specs for a turbo.

Works like this:

That sorta explain it? Actually more popular that a TT set-up. Spools faster than two smaller one's. I'd go Single T4 68mm with .96 A/R or T4 70mm with .86 A/R.

That's a very manley engine you're building there!

(Sorry couldn't resist)

Anyway, really cool to see people digging into the internals. With these days of bolt-on FI and engine computer tweaks it's becoming more of an anachronism.

ahaha, i actually lol'd.

Yeah - i've built the top end of the engine and that was nearly just as difficult as this since the engine was in the car. I find this acquiring and building process just as fun as the install and result. I like to stay busy and shop around for deals. When its done the weakest part of the engine should be the rod bolts at 850hp. Of course I'm not going near there and i could probably sell the shortblock for twice what i'm going to pay total - but it's nice to have that assurance. With my current plans, I plan to get a sponsorship through a new company (TorkTech) that has developed the 8rib drive kit/lower intake/intercooler/heat exchanger ect kit and run my own self bought MP1900 direct from magnuson then post up some big number for their kit and go to the drags helping their reputation with my youtube viewership and other things. So most likely i'll breifly run a tiny pulley and big crank drive pulley for 17-19psi @ 600-650rwhp, then daily the car with a bigger pulley at 15 or so psi and anywhere from 500-540rwhp would make me happy. All this being through a stage II built 3200 stall auto.

Dude...I was going to crack that joke.

Wow that's pretty interesting... So it would seem that the turbo would sit somewhere on top of the transmission...

What fuel/spark management are you planning to use?

Ahahah no, you're looking at it from the wrong prespective man. Those are turbo headers, which always go to the front of the car.
Usually looks like something similar to this (different year though):

I'm using that 255lph inline pump coupled with a 255lph intank pump with my stock -6an lines which should support 700rwhp. For spark i'm simply changing out my coil packs to MSD ones which will bring me to what ever power I'll be runing (pretty simple). Wont be running a sump on the tank - so i'll have to make sure only to go wide open throttle with more than 1/4 tank. I hope to run my daily on premium gas - but will most likely need to mix a bit of race gas with it.

What EM are you going to use to tune the whole thing?

What I currently use to tune my high compression N/A heads/cams set-up. Called a SCT X-CAL II. You plug it into your OBD-II, then plug the other end into a laptop. Then plug your wideband into the handheld tuner as well. Then datalog 18 various things which it charts ect. Then tune. I'll be pulling timing and richening it in order to run a lower octane, but the blower is plenty efficient to dumb down the tune and still make serious daily power. So it's not stand alone, you adjust the CPU setting which are plent dynamic enough. People use the method past 1000rwhp.

What software do you use for that? I was looking to screw around with my truck a little beyond just the standard 'tune'. I looked at running a megasquirt but it seems the factory computer runs a lot of extra stuff and I haven't found a way to bypass just the engine management.

You download SCT livelink and liveload and their tuning app for free once you have the tuner. Unfortunately it's tailored for ford cars, each tuner for a different model. Megasquirt is mainly for OBD-1 right? I'm fully electronic and can map all this stuff using voltages from the stock CPU.

We have something called Romraider and OpenEcu for tuning and reading ecu maps for subarus and Mitsubishis. Are you doing the tuning yourself or do you have a tuner?

My truck is a '97 F-150. My dad bought one of the SCT tuners for his truck '07 F-350 and it said it was compatible with mine but I don't remember seeing how to go about doing your own custom tune.

I'm not really sure how Megasquirt relates to the OBD series. It may require an ignition system such as the Ford EDIS but I think that was available on both OBD-1 and OBD-II cars.

I do all the datalogging and requests for certain shift schedules, lines pressures, rev limiter, ect and i have a guy locally who send them to me and i load them to the handheld.

Awesome build! I can't wait to get out of school and have somewhere to leave an extra engine sitting around. I look forward to future updates.

Oh I get it! Thanks for the pictures! Turbo V8 sounds very appealing, not to mention stupid fast

It does sound more appealing. But i wouldn't be able to use my stock (6 catted, seriously) H-pipe that allows me to pass with cams and basically everything else since it bolts up to the stock manifolds. The blower is CARB approved out of the box, and i might be able to get a sponsorship based on using it. Plus it's power being felt everyday, no lag tones of toque. Although a 68mm turbo would be pretty lagless and be good for same power levels as the blower.\

Main problem is i'd need a tubular k-member and coil over conversion just to fit all of the piping for the turbo's set-up (which would mostly be custom). So that's a big chunck of change without even adding power yet.

Ordered today:
Double Torque plate bore and hone
Balancing
.020 Speed Pro Rings
MMR side Bolts
Clevite rod bearings

Teh List
Double Torque plate bore and honed .20 over Iron block
Forged cobra crank/micro-polished
.20 over Manley 18CC Pistons
Manley H-beam rods and ARP rod bolts
Rotating assembly Balancing
.020 over Speed Pro Rings
Speed Pro main bearings
Clevite rod bearings
MMR side Bolts
ARP Mainstuds

So the 4.7L 900hp rated shortblock is done. Good for a rev-limter of 7,200
I'll post pics once i've fully assembled it.

Also, i figured i'd post up my brakes, cuz i love em' (18" wheels)






vs stock:

Is that a Cobra setup? The caliper kinda looks like it but I don't remember the rotors being that large.

Yeah, same as Bear's kit. They aren't big rotors, just much bigger than stock SN95 GT brakes.

Please tell me that's a picture of the rears, not the fronts. If that's the front rotors I'm a little afraid of stock Mustang GTs now...

Front's although im thinking it may be a visual trick as the new rotors due look huge maybe because showing more of the car? And thw stockers look small zoomed in and dim lighting.
here's them side by side. I believe 10.8" vs just over 13". 5.0's are the worst, these brakes would be an upgrade. Then it's 96-98 GT's. 99+ aren't bad.

Hope that is the rear, if not my stock jetta brakes would be bigger!

Edit: lol at FoMoCo and mustangs

Wow 10.8" in the front on a V8 coupe...that's smaller than a bog-standard 115 HP 10-year-old VW Golf, amongst many other cars.

First model they used all-wheel discs brakes on too - so this was cutting edge stuff for a mustang - lol. You can see why i upgraded. Nice part about mustangs though? 13+" slotted rotors, PBR calipers and brackets with pads, stainless steel lines = $305

Edit: All new, BTW

That is a helluva deal for brakes.

This vid give you a breif idea of how the brakes actually look:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iXqY6FK186Y

Although my exhaust tips are a bit off from the re-install.

Did you keep the side pipes?

i think you and fiber should have your respective engine build threads stickyed, as you both have the most exciting user rides thread.

Yes, i'm sort of a "aint broke dont fix it" kinda guy. If i did replace them i'd get dumps, i like the rear end just looking smoothe. I designed and put together with some frinds these side-pipes anyways, an actual big advantage over the side-pipe kits you can buy from Roush, Spintech ect which snake to the back of the car then to the front making a 180 and a 90 degree abrupt turns. Mine just make a gradual 90, but only 1 or 2 different types of muffler can be used.



Thanks, I appreciate that. Good stuff is still to come too! Hope to post up the assembled shortblock from my back-yard. Then turn this into a forced induction thread and my process of buying up stuff needed for the blower.
Which will include but not be limited to:
New cowl hood (2.5-3") to fit the blower
The blower right from Magnuson Products in "RAW" form so i can polish it (something i do on the side anyways)
The intercooled kit designed for my car
Blower cams
In tank fuel pump
MSD ignition
60/62lb injectors
ARP headstuds
And then the install process!

All that kinda fun stuff - but ima wait untill deals on those fall in my lap like with the shortblock where i saved about $1100

My brother-in-law is running dumps on his '68 Mustang and they are really loud. I forget which mufflers he's using but I want to say Flowmaster 40s, but don't quote me on that.

I vaguely remember seeing side-exit kit where the inlet and outlet to the muffler were both on the same side. I think it was the SVO kit and I thought it included the side skirt with the cut-out for the tip. It looked really nice.



I definitely want to see more pictures!

Yeah, SVO/Roush/Spintech all use the same side muffler inlet/outlet which makes the exhuast do a 180, then it directs to the front of the car and makes a sharp 90 out to the side. I like the SVO kit more than the others as it does come with side skirts, but the main deturrant besides design is price. A simple w/out skirts kit like Spintech/Roush is about $650. Finding a old SVO kit and skirts is closer to $800-900 + $250 in painting the skirts to match my faded red paint, lol. Compare to making my own kit (which doesnt lose power like those can) for $320.
I'm for better or worse a function over form kinda guy - i could even make mine fit the SVO skirts, but that means less ground clearance and more money. And i hate having to pay for paint.
Matter of fact, i will likely keep my future cowl hood the gloss black gelcoat it comes in for a long while on the car whether that looks like carbon-fiber imitation rice or not. I would run it hoodless if it was legal here. Only reason im polishing my blower is because it's cheaper to get it in RAW condition and i have all the tools to polish it.

More Pics WILL come, the steps before the actual install are as much fun as the result for me. So it may take awhile, but this thread will get there.

Not too exciting of an update, just needed parts that have graced my presence:
Speed-pro rod and main bearings

ARP Main studs

ARP headstuds


Block is bored. Internals to be balanced next.

ARP are amongst the finest fasteners. Definitely not the place to skimp when you're using forced induction.

I actually got them for $125 new when they are usually $220, so still skimping and not skimping considering the kit i'd need from Ford Racing with TTY bolts which comes with gaskets is $120. Now i'll just use felpro head gaskets.

My other rods, not for this engine build, but so pretty!

More wheelin' and dealing. Got 4 new forged 18x10 Roush RR03's for $400 from a guy on honda forums who's friend works at the Oxnard plant who makes these for Roush. Roush canceled the order due to no longer making TrakPak mustangs - so they had extras, which employees could buy for cost. They are $2900 from roush, and cheapest online is $2320. Don't worry though crowd, i'm not selling these and going to hell. Going on the car:

Smokin' deal on the wheels. Not really my favorite setup for the SN95 but for that price I'd have done the same thing.

Just a personal preference, but I like those wheels much more than the older ones. It makes the car look much more modern IMO.

I agree - i like Bullits, but one thing about them is the actual spokes are like 16" and the edges account for the extra 2". these go all the way to the edge and i like that. Modern is sorta where I wanna take them, i can sell my old wheel and tire set-up and make a profit too.

Plus these 18x10's are a good deal lighter than my 18x9's.

$400 for 4 forged rims?? daaaaayam I paid $490 just for one at 18x8 size so it costs them $400 to make but sell at $2900? nice profits... I am in the wrong business.

Anyway can't argue with forged rims; they are the best.

The Huffs?

Are they chrome wheels or polished forged ones?

Chrome, which means they're heavier. But the only other finish Roush makes this wheel in is stain black paint. Still light compared to my bullitts. And the guy said that the employees could buy at or below cost since Roush had paid them for having to cancel the order. Not sure exactly how much they paid, but it was less than $400.